What is in a score?

Last night we had the second half of our “Great vintages” wine class and during the class we revisited a concept that had been broached the week before and it got me to thinking which has inspired this blog post.

We have a great group of students that we are happy to say, feel like their questions and participation are appreciated. We may be educating them as a rule but we are always amazed by the many good questions we get and the number that make us scratch our heads as we try to figure out how to answer them. I am happy to report that between Len (our instructor) and me, we are able to adequately answer most of them… until this one.

While the class was studying the vintage chart that Len had passed out and while discussing what scores really meant T=tannic, E=early drinking etc.., a very innocent question was asked.

Q: Does the grading 1-100 work like the grading on a test my child takes in school?

A: Yes

Q: So, if we see a score that is 90pts or above this is an A to A+ wine? If it scores 80 to 89 it is a      B to B+ wine and so on?

A: (Len) Yes, that’s right… (Patrick) um, just a second Len, I don’t agree.

Uh, oh here we go. Who is right here? Each of you is saying a different thing?

I think on the surface the idea is that Len is correct. That is the way it was set up by Robert Parker and it was used that way for many years. Something has happened in the last decade or more that I argued has skewed the scale. People believe that wines scoring below 90pts are not “good” or at least not “very good”.

Winemakers are not satisfied with an 80-89pt rating unless it is a brand that is considered a next tier product already. In fact, some have gone as far as not sending their wines to be tasted by the critics if they weren’t happy with a score that they received previously in another vintage which, I believe, has changed the scale. I went to the computer and logged on to a couple of the better known critics to see what they had to say about wines that they had rated below 85pts and was surprised at some of the adjectives they were using for what should be “better than average” wines.

“An earthy, decaying underbrush, compost-like nose” Mondavi Napa Cabernet 78pts

“Tasted But Not Recommended” Mondavi Napa Cabernet 84pts

“This wine seems texturally deficient. With a clipped, tough finish, it is a relatively weak effort - at least if pleasure is your goal.”Mondavi napa Cabernet 76pts

“1997 Brunello di Montalcino is somewhat one-dimensional, little complexity, depth, or length. However, it is one of the finest wines this estate has yet produced.” Banfi Brunello 86pts (Is that a back handed compliment, yikes)

And on and on…

I am not trying to pick on critics or particular producers but I did want it to be relatable so I picked a couple of better known Vineyards.

Last night Len was back and handed out a sheet that was a printed copy of this: http://palatepress.com/2013/03/wine/how-wine-criticism-is-changing/

So, was I right? Is a 70-80pt score a failing grade? I guess it is the eye of the beholder but I wasn’t able to find a score that was in that scale that the critic said “Good wine” “solid performer” or any positive attribute that would make me buy the wine, and I guess that is the point.

At  Harry’s, you will find a few shelf talkers and there are also a few ratings tags here or there because we agree with the sentiment that a particular critic bestowed on a wine. You will notice that in this store there are not many of them and I will make the same point that we made last night…

If you want a good experience with wine tasting and buying, build a relationship with someone in the store that you frequent, we are all different people with individual likes and dislikes. A person that understands you and your tastes is going to help you much more that a piece of paper with a score on it.

Think of that person in the same light you would your barber or hair stylist. Talk to them and build a trusting relationship. Let them know what you like and what you dislike so that they can help you to have a good experience each time you put your money on the counter. We have used this theory for building what we believe is one of, if not the best shop in our area. It is a philosophy that has been handed down through the generations and we will continue on that path well into the future of Harry's.

-Cheers

Patrick