Stock Up for St. Patrick's Day and March Madness

Was Miles Wrong about Merlot?

A decade ago a quaint little film hit the theaters, and changed the world, or at least the wine world. It was a critical darling, garnering five Oscar nominations, and winning for Best Adapted Screenplay. At the time, we wine professionals didn’t think much of it, other than laughing with it at the ridiculousness of winespeak, and the lengths to which wine lovers go to get their favorite bottles. It was Sideways, and it sparked a wine revolution.

In the movie, Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, a failed novelist who decides to take his buddy Thomas Haden Church on a weekend long bachelor party bender in Santa Barbara wine country. There they drink a little wine, have a gourmet meal or three, drink a little more wine, visit wineries, drink some more wine, meet Sandra Oh and Virginia Madsen, drink a bit more wine, fall in love, drink lots more wine, and crash Milo’s Saab into a tree. Throughout the course of this rollicking good time, Milo explains how wonderful Pinot Noir is, and how awful and insipid is the dreaded Merlot.

Before the Sideways Effect, as wine geeks call it, Merlot was the most popular red grape among young wine drinkers, and the sky was the limit. Growers were ripping out less profitable vines and replanting to Merlot at every opportunity, and production was at an all time high. A year later, Merlot sales had plummeted twenty percent, and growers started replacing their Merlot vines with… you guessed it, Pinot Noir. Pinot became the darling of critics and Somms across the country, and Merlot faded from popularity, a ghost of its former self.

But Miles was wrong, dead wrong.

Not about the glory of Pinot Noir, because it is, in the right hands, a magnificent grape capable of making some the world’s greatest wines. He was wrong about Merlot, as it also makes some of the world’s greatest wines. One of the all-time best wines I ever had was a 1997 Pahlmeyer Merlot, dense and lush, bursting with juicy, ripe blackberry, espresso, spices and so much more. And of course there is the legendary Petrus, one of the most expensive wines in the world, from Pomerol in Bordeaux, made from - you guessed it - 100% Merlot. 

The truth was, and still is, that too much Merlot was planted in the wrong soils, overcropped, harvested over-ripe with little to no acidity. The end result was shelves and wine lists jammed full of the dull, lifeless cheap Merlot that Miles railed against. Sadly the same can now be said about Pinot Noir - we taste lots of them that are flat and uninteresting, and even worse, too expensive. The lesson here is just because you can grow a certain grape doesn’t mean you should.

So, where should we be growing Merlot? Bordeaux of course, the grapes homeland, makes many fantastic ones, as do the hillside vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. And, in my opinion, one other locale shows the potential for greatness - Washington’s Columbia Valley, a point driven home to me last week at the Blue Lemon in Westport, where Harry’s hosted a delightful wine dinner with Walla Walla’s L’Ecole No. 41 winery. While all their wines are delicious, the star of the show for me was the Merlot 2011, bursting with fruit, but on a supple framework, polished and elegant while rich and powerful at the same time, paired wonderfully with seared yellowfin tuna with a black cherry glaze. Best of all, it’s affordable, selling for under $30, a price that is all too often the starting point to get a decent bottle of Pinot Noir. And L’Ecole is hardly alone; there are lots of tasty Washington Merlots out there - why not give one a try?

In the end of Sideways, even Miles tacitly admits his mistake, as he guzzles his coveted 1961 Cheval Blanc from a styrofoam cup in a fast food joint. Cheval Blanc is a Saint-Emilion, a blend of just a splash Cabernet Franc added to, yep, the dreaded Merlot. 

 -Scott Hill

WINE DINNER: Italian Wine Dinner Mon, March 9th 2015 7pm-9pm

Harry’s Wine & Liquor Market, 

Luca Ristorante and Visco Imports Present:

Italian Wine Dinner  

Monday, March 9 – 7:00PM

$120 all inclusive

Welcome Wine

Wine: Prosecco Millesimato N.V. “Corte Moschina”

Antipasto

Polenta alla Padovana:

Cornmeal served with spicy Italian sausage ragout 

Wine: Barbaresco 2011 “Cavaliere di Moasca”

Pasta

Tagiatelle alla Toscana :

Sandra’s homemade tagliatelle tossed with fresh Organic Porcini mushrooms and black truffle paste in a delicate Brandy cream sauce

Wine: Brunello di Montalcino Eremus 2009 “Solearis”

Secondo di Carne

Medaglioni di Manzo in salsa al dolce latte:

Pan roasted medallion of filet mignon with herbs in a refined imported dolce latte Gorgonzola sauce 

Wine: Barbera Riserva dei Colli Bolognesi 2010   “Il Monticino”

Dessert

Misto di Formaggi:

Mix of Imported cheeses served with walnuts and White Truffle honey 

Wine:  Barolo Poiano 2010 “Cascina Radice”

For reservations please contact:
Luca Ristorante Italiano
142 Old Ridgefield Rd, Wilton
Phone:  (203) 563-9550
Email: lucaristorante@aim.com
www.lucaristoranteitaliano.com

Wine Tasting - Saturday 1-4PM, March 7

Your Host:
Chris Rundstrom of  Connecticut Distributors

Mas Lavail Carignan Blanc 2013 . . . $13.99A fresh and supple wine with fine aromas of white flowers and citrus melted with spicy notes. The mouth is round and very well balanced.
Cambria "Julia's Vineyard" Pinot Noir 2012 . . . $19.99This single-vineyard selection from the Jackson Family’s Santa Maria Valley winery kicks off with scents ranging from red, blistered tomato to pomegranate reduction and mole sauce. On the palate, flavors vary from sweeter berry to tart cherry, with a savory, roasted pork element rounding out the wine. Wine Enthusiast, 91ptsArceno Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 . . . $25.99The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva opens to a large-scale taste profile with bold cherry, blackberry and dark spice. Firm tannins wrap around the velvety finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Wine Advocate, 91pts
Vignot Saint Emilion 2007 . . . $39.99
With a hint of toast on the nose, the classic aromas (leather, cherry, and brandy) are melted with the notes of cedar and coconut. The mouthfeel is soft and round, with ripe, fine-grained tannins. It expresses elegance with a long finish

Beer Tasting 4 - 7pm Friday, March 6

Your host is Nicole from Long Ireland Brewery.
Breakfast Stout   $9.99/6pbtlCoffee nose, milky essence. It's light and pillowy enough to be a summer stout, with enough body and hearty roastiness to please stout lovers looking for a glass of the good black stuff.

Celtic Ale    $9.99/6pbtlA big serving of honey and oats give this ale its sweet, smooth flavor.

Pale Ale   $10.29/6pbtlCitrus and pine floral hop flavors offer a crisp, slightly bitter finish which complements a sweet malt base.

Indigenious Varietals of Italy

“Indigenous” varietals refers to grapes which only or mainly grow and thrive in one particular region and the wines produced from those grapes.  Conversely, what are known as “international” varietals, such as Cabernet or Merlot, etc, etc, etc, are varieties of grapes that grow and thrive in many countries and areas. You can find Cabernet or Merlot, etc, in just about every known area where wine is produced.

Mountainous terrain, volcanic soils, innumerable microclimates, and an ancient culture of winemaking make Italy the most diverse country in the world of wine. This diversity is reflected in the fact that Italy grows the largest number of native wine grapes known, amounting to more than a quarter of the world’s commercial wine grape types. There are about five hundred known varietals from Italy.

Whilst most of the popular red wines from Italy, such as, Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara etc), Babera, Dolcetto, etc, as well as many of the white varietals, can technically be considered indigenous varietals, however, they are wines and varietals that are widely known and consumed by most wine drinkers around the world. In this piece, I want to focus on some of the less known areas and varietals which I love and which are gaining some notoriety here in the US. Today, I am just focusing on some of the reds, but I will cover the whites in another piece.

I personally love the indigenous varietals from the north.  Like Pinot Noir and how it thrives in cooler climates, which gives the wine’s fruit it’s delicacy and freshness and beautiful vibrant acidity, the wines from the north of Italy are similar. The flavors from some of the varietals have deeper and darker black fruit flavors than many pinots, but they have that similar vibrant, racy acidity which makes them some of the best “food wines” that I have ever tasted. The fruit is so dense and pure. Certain areas like the Valle D’Osta region will occasionally use Pinot Noir , but the indigenous grapes, Fumin and Petit Rouge,, are a couple of the more commonly used varietals from that region. I love the wines from that region.


Some of the northern areas which I love are Valle D’Osta ,  Friuli  Venzia Giulia, Veneto, Tentino-Alto Adige, Emilia Romagna, etc, Some of the varietals from their respected regions  are Fumin, Petit Rouge, Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, Refosco, Lambrusco, Shiapettino, etc, etc, etc.

Most of the high quality wines from these areas are produced in very small quantities, which is good. Better fruit. Maybe we can entice our esteemed owners, William and Patrick to bring in a couple more of these little gems.

The wines from the north of Italy pair great with the rich foods native to the region such as risottos, braised meats, rich, creamy pasta dishes, game meats, sautéed mushrooms, truffles, salumi and cheeses, etc, etc, etc. Ooh. I’m getting hungry!

In this piece, I am just going to cover the smallest fraction of Italy’s indigenous varietals and the wines produced from them.

I am going to focus on some of the wines that we sell here at Harry’s Wine Market.

Like Pinot Noir, I feel that the appreciation and enjoyment of these wines is a natural progression for most wine enthusiasts. When drinking big and bold wines and modern style wines, such as California Chardonnay or big, modern styled Cabernets Sauvignons, etc, etc, etc, they can tend to have big pronounced flavors, often due to the use of new oak barrels. New oak barrels, whether used for whites or reds, can often add toasty, smoky, mocha, vanillin and buttery type flavors that are easily detectable. There is absolutely nothing wrong with those wines. I love many of them myself.  It’s just that sometimes one will eventually tend to gravitate towards the wines that have certain subtleties and nuances and purity of the native fruit, which can be so enjoyable. The pure, delicate fruit flavors combined with other subtle nuances, whether it is spicy or an earthy type of flavor profile is what makes these wines so enjoyable.

As Italy is known for it’s fine cuisine, most of their wines and even spirits are made to drink and be enjoyed before, during or after a wonderful meal. These wines are just fabulous to pair with the cuisine popular to the area where the grapes are grown. 

Here are some selections we have here at Harry’s to help you get started on the wonderful and most enjoyable journey into the rare, indigenous varietals of Italy.

2011 Feudi del Pisciotto, Frapatto

Frapatto is a wine from Sicily. I love Frapatto.

It has a ruby red color. The bouquet and flavors are fresh with red fruits and sweet spices..The mouth has a good balance: It is round but with good acidity and a lingering finish. Bott. $25.99 / Case $280

2013 Fratelli Alesandra, Pelverga,

This unique wine is produced only in the commune of Verduno,with the rare,indigenous grape variety Pelaverga Piccolo. It looks particular since its color; but the most fascinating peculiarity is the unmistakable scent of spices,especially pepper,that is the reason of Speziale.
Indulge yourself! Bott. $22.99/ Case $237

2011 Foradori Teraldego

This is one of my absolute favorites. Elizabetta Foradori’ is the winemaker. She is one of the heralded women winemakers of today. This wine is from Trentino-Alto Adige in the north of Italy. This area is widely known for it’s white wines, mainly Pinot Grigio, but the reds are fabulous.

The Foradori Teraldego is dark garnet, almost purple but not inky, with the aroma of dark fruit layered with smoke and earth. On the palate it is fresh and lively. The finish is long with a light tannic feel and beautiful velvet like texture. 

The price of this wine, to me, is in the sweet spot. It’s in the Goldie Lox Zone of the price/quality ratio. To get a wine of this quality, at this price?......pssh….forget about it! Are you kidding me? You must come in and try a bottle.

Try this wine with a big, juicy veal chop and maybe some sautéed Portobello mushrooms or try it with some Mushroom Risotto or try it with some Veal or Lamb Osso Bucco or with some Rabbit Stew or with some Ricotta Gnocchi or Pasta with a silky cream ragu.….or……...try it with a Bacon Cheeseburger and Cheese Fries with a side of brown gravty! Just try it!! Bott. $25.99 / Case $280

2010 Punta Crena Tsasco, Rossese

Varietal characteristics include bright wild strawberry, blackcurrant and other forest fruit flavors, along with enticing rose and black pepper aromatics. Modest of alcohol and vibrant of acid, Rossese shows intense fruit aromas when young, and does quite nicely with a slight chill, though I prefer it at room temperature. Bott. $23.99 / Case $259.

2007 Paolo Bea Sagrantino

The Paolo Bea Winery estate is one of the finest in Italy. Paolo Bea is a very traditional producer of fine wines. He has a great commitment to terroir’ and old fashion wine making techniques. Each bottle provides an indication of the total produced that year. The wines, made organically without pesticides or herbicides, are robust and complex. Unfiltered, their slight sediment content only serves to enhance their rustic nature. Filtering can remove a lot of the natural flavors. It is dense and spicy with hints of licorice, dark chocolate and cherries.  Bott. $79.99 / Case $863.

Again, this is a tiny fraction of the indigenous Italian varietals, but it’s a great place to start.

Please chime in to give me any feedback or thoughts on these wines. I would love to hear your opinions.. Thank you very much.

Scott M. Tiberi

Harry’s Wine Market